Please email me with any questions regarding parts or procedure.

This site will give you a complete parts list of what you will need. http://www.ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html#1LErear I had problems finding calipers. I ended up buying loaded ones from GM (yes, they now have rights to my first born) Even then I still didn't have all of the ebrake assembly. ANDYZ28 from thirdgen.org was kind enough to order and send me the missing parts.

This is the stock drum mounting flange: You need to cut off the material above the brake cylinder hole. I used a grinder, but a hacksaw will work as well.

Modified flange: The excess material has been loped off. The two holes on the bottom need to be drilled and tapped for the new bolts. I used 3/8 hardware. I tapped the 2 bottom holes and then mounted the caliper mounting plate. This is where the alignment tool comes in... As I am sure you have noticed, the caliper mounting plate has a larger diameter hole. The alignment tool centers the plate with the axle. Slide it over the axle and into the plate. Finger tighten the 2 lower bolts, making sure that the plate is flush against the axle flange. Now, simply mark your 2 upper holes. Take the plate and tool off and then center punch the marked holes. Now just drill and tap the 2 upper bolt holes.

Backside view of the modified plate and new holes: On both sides of the axle I found that there is one bolt that comes pretty close to the edge of the flange.

Alignment tool: This is gizmo that I had made to center the caliper plate on the axle.

Backing plate to axle gap: You can see why I had the alignment tool made. If you drilled the holes in the axle perfectly you could get pretty close, but there is still a little bit of play. I wanted the caliper centered over the rotor so I felt it was necessary to have one made.

Alignment tool at work: Here you can see why the alignment tool is needed. With the spacers behind the mounting plate, I simply torqued the bolts to spec (74 ft/#s)and then slid the tool out.

Shims.... but not that you can see them. I am not sure how many people have actually taken note of what I have been doing but I SCREWED UP!!!I ended up putting the backing plates on the wrong sides. This caused me to use WAY more shims than I actually need to. I have found that the caliper cage is now straight in reference to the rotor. This maybe because I had them on wrong but I am not sure. It's nothing that the pads won't wear into but it bugs me. I went from ~.25" of shims to ~.0625!! So now I have a ton of shims that I don't need.Anyway... Here is what you do.. This next part is the most time consuming, the shims. I used brass, you may use steel or even titanium (no I will not help fund the cost) I ordered 12"X12" sheets of varying thickness from www.mcmastercarr.com. The first shim needs to have a slightly larger dia hole than the rest. There is a small lip on the flange that this first shim needs to slip over, the rest of them are made to just fit over the end of the axle. I bought a 2.5" hole saw and simply filed the edge a little to make them slip on.

This is why the shims take so much time. If you don't get the right thickness, the caliper cage scrapes the rotor. What I ended up doing was taking a guess and then installing them. I had to torque all the bolts for the plate, install the rotor AND lugnuts, then I could mount the caliper cage. If it wasn't right, I had to measure the gap and then take everything apart. I HIGHLY reccomend you make more shims than you need the first time around. By the way, the total shim amount came out to ~.125" on one side and ~.0625" on the other

If you are not aware, a fully loaded axle is FREAKIN' HEAVY. I lugged it out of the basement (walk-out, I am not that nuts) into the garage. I snapped a quick pic before it was rolled under the car. The jack made for a nice mode of transportation.

I conned my girlfriend into coming over to help bleed the brakes. She ended up with the camera... and the rest is internet history. By the way this is after about 10 hours of working. No it doesn't take 10 hours to reinstall the rear, I had some buttoning up to do. The proportioning valve and I don't exactly see eye-to-eye either, but that's another story.

Not the best shot, but you get the idea. I *might* update this pic when the car is all done... but knowing me I will probably forget.

The following are few shots of the gear swap. Here you can see the VSS gears you need to change also.

This is what the Zexel Torsion posi looks like. It's amazing how it works.

This was the finished product pre disc swap.

Yum, dirty gear oil and a crap covered axle.